1997

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

(following updates are being inputed in April 1998, so recollection is vague as to details, so will sum up one month at a time, rather than by the weekend)

August

Most of this month was spent surfing at our favorite spot: Choshi, Ibaragi. Waves were constantly good, with waves being overhead on average. However, the best surf session of the month was in Kamakura just outside the Burger King in the parking lot. We were surfing over by the point on the east side, with constant 1.5X overhead waves, with a crisp offshore breeze. Only drawback was the numerous JELLYFISH in the water. All of us were constantly getting stung. Kiri was the most unfortunate, with a sting directly to her eyes, thus she had to get out early. The rest of us endured, as the waves were too good to give up. Once the tide came up, we moved over to the east of the point, and got some of the most hollow waves I surfed yet in Japan. I may have tubed the back of my board, but was going too fast and critical to take time to look behind me to see where the sweet spot was (was that fast a wave). All you had time for was a drop in, then scream to the right as fast as you could prior to the shoulder taking you out on the head.

September

Most of the surfing this month was spent at Shimoda. We tend to stay away from Shimoda during the prime Summer months, as it tends to be overcrowded both in and out of the water. Just too dangerous to be surfing in the water with so many surfer-wannabes getting in the way. As this was typhoon season, waves were good in size, with the smallest day being koshi (waist high) and the highest 2X overhead. One new aspect to our trips down to Shimoda was a golf game at 6am in the morning. Turns out the Shimoda C.C. offers as many holes of golf you can cram in from 5:30-9:00am for only 5,000 Yen. Quiet the bargain, especially if the water is flat that time of day. Only problem with our first game was that I forgot to bring a putter, thus had to put with a 3-iron. Not good.

October

This month had an equal mix of Surfing and golfing. Since joining the trading desk at Morgan, I've been more involved with interaction with the people we work with outside of the company. The best way in which to talk for a full day without getting bored immediately is a game of golf. Is good for both sides in that we get to know each other better, and get a good day of golf in. I used to disdain golf and those who played, but its amazing how narrow-minded one can be without having really tried the sport in the first place. After playing several games, am quite taken to the sport, and am even looking forward to taking lessons at driving ranges in Tokyo. Only drawback is that my score is horrendous, and am easily frustraded at my performance when compared to my peers. I think the game is best summed by a quote I've heard often: "The game of golf is a perfectly good walk ruined".

November

Not much to report for this month. Only went surfing twice to Kamakura with one great day (1.5X overhead), and the other being koshi (waist). Highlight of the month was downhill mountain biking (MTB) that Chizuko and I did at Fujimi Panorama Ski-jo. We took a gondola to the top of the ski resort, and let gravity propel us downward for over an hour (took the easiest route down). Was a blast, and look forward to more trips next fall.

December

HAWAII. Went to Hawaii with Ken, Kiri, and my wife for one week. The first four days were spent in Maui with my mother who was excited to see us after 3 years. We spent the morning surfing Honolua bay on the north shore of Maui, and the afternoons/evenings with mom. Was the first time we'd been to Maui, and loved it even more than our usual destination of Oahu. If you get the chance to make it out that way, I highly recommend the Maui Eldorado Resort The place is a condo operated by the Outrigger chain, and is in probably one of the best locations on the island, as its close to good surfing, restaurants, and golf. The view is also phenomenal, and is reasonably priced. (heads up for heavy usage of the word "four"): After our four days there, the four of us went to Waikiki for four more days of pure surf for us (the guys) and shopping (the girls).

One of the best parts of the Oahu portion was the fact that we surfed a different spot every day. First evening was out in front of the hotels in Waikiki with knee-high waves. The following morning was Sunset beach with 2X overhead. Was a bit too heavy for us to be out there with our longboards, as most of the other people in the water had guns. Highlight of this day was getting the chance to meet and talk to Joel Tudor, whom is considered one of, if not the best, longboarders in the world. Next day was a great surf session at Makaha. It started easy enough at about 2X overhead with clean peeling rights, but soon grew larger than we could handle, with one set of rhinos coming in and wiping clean everyone but four of five of us to the beach. I remember coming up after the last wave in the large set, and only seeing a few others, while everyone else had been washed into the beach. Was quite an experience to be up front and personal with the 'rouge sets' that are notorious in Hawaii. Last day was probably the best for Ken. Poor Ken, the entire trip had us surfing right breaking waves, and with Ken being goofy-footed (right foot forward) it was harder on him to tackle the big waves with his back to them. So finally on the last day, we had big waves at Sandy's beach (2X overhead). He finally got to surf facing the break, and I got the chance to appreciate how hard it must have been for him to tackle the other spot's large waves on the backside, as I was now having to do the same.
End of 1997.