by J.C.N. Adams
Getting around in Tokyo is easy. Usually one travels by train (eg, JR East) or subway. Consequently, destinations are often identified by the nearest train station.
Here are some of our insider insights into a few corners of Tokyo. And don't despair! Maps are coming soon!
| Ebisu | Omori | Roppongi | Takadanobaba |
| Ueno | Other Tokyo Spots | Day Trips from Tokyo | Yokohama |
| Non-smoking Restaurants | Rock Climbing | Shopping | Links |
TAKADANOBABA (on
J.R. Yamanote and Tozai subway lines)
Often referred to as "THE BABA," this university district
is PARTY TOWN. Lots of restaurants, bars and interesting sights, including
drunken Waseda University students.
MEETING PLACE:
MICKEY HOUSE 4th Floor. A small "English conversation bar" where Japanese people (mainly women) go (and pay to enter) to practice their English on the gaijin who go there. The manager and his wife are very friendly. Entrance is free for gaijin and it's busy Thursday, Friday and sometimes Saturday nights. 5 minute walk down Waseda dori from the JR station.
BOOKSTORE:
BIBLOS English bookstore. F.I. Bldg, 4F, 1-26-5 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku, (03) 3200-4531. Good range of English books and magazines. Friendly staff. 30 seconds to the station.
BARS:
THE FIDDLER (Formerly known as the "Mean Fiddler"). An "English" pub that generally has live music on Thurs. - Sat. nights from about 9 pm. Generally FREE to get in. Often has live music on other nights too. Serves English beer and other brews. It's downstairs, near the corner of Waseda dori and Meiji dori.
THE COTTON CLUB Downstairs and opposite (almost) the Mickey House. Very nice decor including a few palms. Reasonable prices although they do add 500 yen on your bill for service.
WANTON WELLS A nice little underground bar up the hill from the McDonald's (on the outside of the Yamanote circle).
BOYLSTON A "shot" bar specializing in whiskeys. Expensive, but American decor that goes down well with students.
RESTAURANTS:
KAO THAI The BEST Thai food in Tokyo. This small downstairs friendly restaurant has very authentic meals at a reasonable price (approx. 800-900 yen/dish).
MALABAR Indian Restaurant. Inside the Yamanote circle on the south side of Waseda dori just before you get to McDonald's (almost exactly across Waseda dori from the small side street where Kao Thai is located).
HAMARIKI Chanko nabe restaurant. Nabe is a pot of food cooked at your table. Chanko nabe is the protein-rich style eaten by sumo wrestlers. The restaurant is owned and operated by a former wrestler who often comes out to chat with the customers. Phone (03) 3200-2901.
CAPRICCIOSA Above McDonald's - entrance is from side lane. A Waseda U. student hangout, it has other branches in Roppongi, Harajuku, Asakusa, and just about everywhere else you can think of. The servings are HUGE. One order is enough for 2 people (generally). Cost: about 1400 yen and includes complimentary tea or coffee.
LIFELY 3rd floor, Somon Building (on corner near station--above First Kitchen) VEGETARIAN CUISINE. Nice food - reasonable prices. 11 am - 10 pm. Also natural food grocery; 10 am - 8 pm. (03) 3203-4482.
SHIROKIYA One of a chain of standard izakaya, very popular among students (which is a sure sign the prices are reasonable). Order from the pictures on the menu. Below the Lifely Restaurant and above the First Kitchen (2nd floor)
TAVERNA Italian (Roman) Restaurant. Nice restaurant, nice food (hand-made antipastos are especially good). About 1900 yen for a set menu (2nd floor). Often have a half-priced bottle of wine on Mondays.
RAJPUT Pakistani Restaurant. Similar menu to Indian food. (2nd floor) Set of Curry, Rice and Naan, for about 1200 yen. Note the degrees of hotness on the menu, 1-7, 7 being Muslim HOT.
COUSCOUS African Restaurant. On same floor as Rajput. Very good set menu; a little pricier than Rajput. Often crowded because there are only half a dozen tables.
THE OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY The same chain as in the States. Good food, good value, large restaurant and quick service. Approx 1250 yen meal set which includes spaghetti, bread, salad or soup, dessert and a drink. (2nd floor, next to pachinko parlor)
JONATHAN'S Reasonably priced microwaved frozen food (although the salads aren't too bad...). The redeeming quality of this place is that it's open 24 hours a day.
SHAKEY'S PIZZA (behind Big Box) Great for a 500 yen pizza buffet lunch. Back to top
Popular with foreigners since American soldiers were billeted near here during the occupation. Dead on Sunday, busy on Friday and Saturday nights. Much has been written about Roppongi, so we won't say too much. You can always get the first editions of Tokyo Classifieds at the Almond corner on Friday nights. Lots of other things are available at the Almond corner, too, but you can figure that out for yourself!
The last trains are interesting at Roppongi - people are either pouring in or pouring out for the night. The first train in the morning is also interesting.
BARS:
GAS PANIC There are 3 of them. Sometimes seedy, mostly culturally interesting, and usually loud. The one marked on the map is best. 3rd floor: women often dance on the bar. (Editor's note: Well, they used to! Apparently the bouncers put a stop to that!) Catch the elevator to get there.
MOTOWN 2nd floor. Packed with gaijin and others. No cover charge.
MILWAUKEE Downstairs, near Motown and on the way to Gas Panic. A nice quiet bar where you can catch your breath between the loud and busy ones.
GERONIMO'S Small bar on the 2nd floor across from Almond corner. Sometimes interesting!
CAVERN CLUB Beatles cover band--close your eyes and you'll think it really is John, Paul, George and Ringo. Expensive, but good entertainment.
RESTAURANTS:
MOTI Indian Restaurant. Part of a chain, but the best Indian food in Japan. Other branches in Akasaka and Akasaka Mitsuke.
CAPRICCIOSA Italian Restaurant. Same chain as the one in Takadanobaba. Good food, smaller restaurant.
MEETING PLACE:
THE ALMOND CAFE Called "the Almond," its distinctive pink awnings and corner location make it an obvious meeting place in Roppongi. Just stand outside and watch the world go by. Back to top
Often used as a stepping off point for people catching the subway to Roppongi, Ebisu is rapidly becoming a popular night spot of its own accord. Ebisu is the name of the God of Commerce, whose statue sits between the subway station and the JR station to mark the most popular meeting spot in the area.
MEETING, CONVERSATION PLACE:
COM INN 5th Floor, 1-3-9 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Phone (03) 3710-7063. An English conversation lounge similar to the Mickey House except gaijin are charged about 500 yen to get in. Lots of regulars like to play Scrabble and other games. Best nights are Thursday and Friday.
RESTAURANTS AND BARS:
KHUMBILA, Nepalese Restaurant near the Com Inn. Housed in a very interesting building. A little pricey (about 2500 yen each) but very spicy. 1-9-11 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Phone (03) 3719-6115.
NINNUKIYA, also known as "the garlic restaurant". Straight down the road from the East Exit of the station.
WHAT THE DICKENS English Pub. On the top (4th) floor of the Roob 6 building (1-13-3 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku). The entrance is behind a big sound-proofed fire door, it's nevertheless a popular place. It's hard to spot at first, but easy once you know. Go down the side street next to Wendy's. It's the building on the second corner on your left. Live music 6 days a week. Closed Mondays. No cover charge, except on special occasions. English food and beer. (03) 3780-2099
EBISU GARDEN PLACE A complex of restaurants and bars at the base and on upper floors of office/hotel towers. The Trianon is a reproduction of the building of the same name at Versailles. Visit the complex at night time; great atmosphere. At the German beer hall you can do the "chicken dance" in Japanese! 10 minute walk south along the tracks from the East Exit of the station.
BOOKSTORE:
GOODDAY BOOKS 1-11-23 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, (03) 5421-0957. English language books; new and used. Friendly staff, nice atmosphere. Back to top
As far as John is concerned, this is the motorbike center of Tokyo. If you're into motorbikes the area east and north of the station is the place to check out. For "normal" people, it is Ueno Park, on the west side of the station, that offers the most. It is particularly strong on museums:
Other noteworthy places in the park:
Running alongside the railroad tracks between Ueno and Okachimachi is the market area known alternatively as "okachimachi" or "ameyokocho". Ordinary folks have been shopping here for about 3 centuries. This was the black market area during the post-war occupation. You'll find great bargains on food, clothing and everything in between. On sale here are lots of interesting little things that you can't find anywhere else! Always busy and interesting, dusk may be the best time to try to bargain. Back to top
A century ago, Omori was a distant suburb of Tokyo, particularly popular with literary types. For centuries before that it was samurai estates. Millenia ago it was a coastal region inhabited by stone-age people. Now it is considered quite central, but still has remnants its history, both recent and ancient.
Omori Shell Mound -- In 1877, the American zoologist, Dr. E.S. Morse, spotted a land formation as the train he was riding from Yokohama to Shibashi passed through the Omori area. The formation was, to him, reminiscent of similar shapes that had held shell mounds from the Jomon Period (Japan's stone age). It was nearly a year before he had a chance to return to the site which, when excavated, turned out to be a large shell mound, the remnants of a Jomon community. (Although Omori is now a few kilometers from the sea, at that time it was a coastal area.) The Omori Shell Mound has been turned into a public park with displays on Jomon lifestyle and part of the original shell mound viewable from behind plexiglass in cutaway. The Jomon Period is enjoying a particular popularity in Japan these days. This is a great place to get a feel for what all the fuss is about. Exit Omori Station by the north exit, turn left and go up the stairs to Ikegami-dori, turn right and walk about 800 meters. The park is on the right. The gates are locked at 5 pm in summer and 4 pm in winter.
The Magome Literary Walk -- Omori's strong literary history is celebrated in the literary walk, a trail through the Omori/Magome areas passing by the homes or former homes of some of Japan's literary greats. A map of the entire walk is on display on a board next to Ikegami Dori just outside the central exit of Omori Station. Markers appear along the walk explaining (in Japanese only, alas) the various sites. There are also tiles embedded in the streets along the way, usually at critical turns, to point you in the right direction.
One of our favorite stops on the walk is the Sanno Sodo Kinenkan, a museum on the site of the home of S. Tokutomi (1863-1957) the publisher of "Kokumin no Tomo", Japan's first general interest magazine. Preserved in the museum is a small portion of his original house, including his study, and displays of his memorabilia, including copies of some of his correspondence with many of his western counterparts. The garden is also very pleasant. Located at 1-4-21 Sanno, Ota-ku, the museum is open from 9 am to 4:30 pm, 7 days a week, and is free of charge.
Daibo Hongyoji Temple (2-10-5 Ikegami, Ota-ku) -- In September 1282, the Buddhist saint, Nichiren, on his way to a hot springs in an attempt to regain his health, was forced by his illness to stop and rest at the home of samurai Munenaka Ikegami, an adherent of his teachings. It was here that Nichiren died in October 1282. Ikegami's home, in particular the room from which Nichiren preached, propped against a pillar so he could address those who had come to see him, until he died, has been converted into a temple. The pillar is now covered with a brocade cloth; followers still come here to pray. On the hill behind the temple is a cemetery containing a large marker to Nichiren, although whether his remains are here or elsewhere appears to be disputed. To get here from Omori Station catch the Ikegami loop line bus (Mori #06), which leaves from the Sanno exit. Get off at "Daibo-mae".
RESTAURANTS:
Tapas Tapas: There are two at Omori, one across Ikegami Dori from the Central Exit and up the stairs toward the shrine, the other out the north exit and then down the escalator to the west in the Berg Building. The latter is better. This Italian cuisine includes great spaghettis, its own special garlic bread (with a tomato and garlic dipping sauce), and huge salads.
Takazuna: Just a two minute walk from the north exit of Omori station, this is yet another of those famous chanko nabe places--remember, chanko nabe is the meal of sumo champions!
Dairen: This is a great little Chinese restaurant run by a Japanese man born and raised in Manchuria. Although its famous for its gyoza (pot-stickers), we like the mabo-style eggplant the best. This restaurant has recently been featured on several television programs. Take the north exit of Omori station, go left and up the stairs to the street and turn right. At the "Sanno-guchi" intersection (just a few meters) go left until you come to a walk-over bridge. Cross here and proceed down "Shogakko Dori" on the other side. About 500 or 600 meters up Shogakko Dori and on the left-hand side. Back to top
SHINJUKU: Take a quick free trip to the top of the twin-towered Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Better views than TokyoTower (and less kitsch, too!). Make it on a clear day and you'll be able to see Mt. Fuji. Shinjuku has more restaurants and bars than we could possibly begin to tell you about. Golden Gai, one of the few remaining drinking districts that had official GHQ approval after the war, is a real blast from the past!
AKIHABARA: Called "Electric Town" for all those electrical gadgets. After extensive research, John has identified the cheapest duty-free store there.
SHIMBASHI: There are lots of great eateries and drinkeries in this area. Our favorite is probably Carne Station, a great all-you-can-eat-and-drink restaurant in the basement of the #3 Ginza Nine Building, just a 10 minute walk from the station. 2900 yen for 90 minutes. Reservations are a good idea: (03) 5568-6167. (A historical note: Japan's very first train travelled between Shinbashi and Yokohama stations--that helps explain the big steam locomotive in SL Square in front of the station, doesn't it?)
TSUKIJI: This area is best known for the central wholesale market. Try to catch the first train of the day to get there as early as possible. The tuna auctions are usually finished by 6 am! It is great fun to wander through the stalls watching fish being processed and sold. Observe the design of the market and the movement of goods for an instant lesson in the Japanese distribution system. (Some folks say that a sashimi breakfast is a must after visiting the market--we like the breakfast set at a local coffee shop, ourselves!)
IKEBUKURO: Lots of young people having fun. Ikebukuro station has HUGE underground areas and lots of exits - have fun getting lost! This used to be the best place to find good bagels and bone-in ham, but we keep getting lost there so haven't seen either lately. If you're into cars then TOYOTA has 6 stories displaying all their latest and greatest cars in the Amlux building. There is a TOKYU HANDS department store here too, near the Amlux building. Recommended lunch place: Shakey's Pizza.
MEGURO: There are some good ethnic restaurants near the station, but even better are the Metropolitan Teien Art Museum and the Shizenkyoikuen, the National Science Museum's Institute for Nature Study. The Teien Art Museum is the former home of the late Prince Asaka, an art deco style house built in the 1920s. It is a beautiful structure in which one can imagine the life of the other half (although the rooms themselves are surprisingly small). Next door is the Shizenkyoikuen, several acres left in their natural state (relatively, anyway) with paths so that one can wander.
JIYUGAOKA: 15 minutes from Shibuya on the Toyoko line, this place is called "fashionable Jiyugaoka." Next to Roppongi, Jiyugaoka has more BMW's than anywhere else. Lots of young trendy people and some good ethnic restaurants (Thai, Italian, Vietnamese and Indian). Just a few minutes north of here on the Oimachi train line at Todoroki station is the Todoroki Gorge. Yes, a forest and creek in a gorge. Quiet and relatively natural and right in the heart of Tokyo! The Todoroki Fudo Temple here is also interesting; especially stunning during cherry blossom season. Back to top
Anything can be found in Tokyo--if you can afford it and if you know where to look! We don't like to spend money unnecessarily, so here are clues to finding the affordable or just finding what you're looking for.
SALVATION ARMY HOSPITAL BAZAAR -- every Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm at their permanent site, next to the Booth Memorial Hospital for Recovering Alcoholics at Nakano Fujimicho station on the spur line of the Marunouchi subway line. This place is very popular with newly arrived foreigners as a place to get the little odds and ends necessary to furnish a home (and some of the bigger odds and ends, too). Most (but not all) of the goods are second hand and include furniture, bedding, dishes, appliances, books, clothing, sporting goods, and traditional Japanese crafts. Among the best souvenir items one can pick up here are used kimonos, dolls in glass cases, and high quality Japanese pottery--often still in the original gift box. When exiting Nakano Fujimicho station turn left. Follow the road to a stoplight on which is hanging a sign that says "Wada 2". Turn right, follow this road until it takes a small jog to the right and narrows. Turn left, after about 200 meters the bazaar is on the right hand side. (You can also ask the subway station attendant for a map, but that seems too easy!)
GENERAL DISCOUNT STORES
Doors in Moto-sumiyoshi (Toyoko line) has furniture, garden goods and household items at very reasonable prices. We've purchased furniture, carpets, curtains, appliances, tools and paint. Furniture often has to be order made (which takes a little time); delivery can be arranged for anything you purchase. (When leaving Moto-sumiyoshi station, turn left, climb the stairs and walk straight down the market street. Doors is on the right hand side.)
Daishin in Omori is well known for its reasonable prices--so much so that on week-ends the line of cars waiting to get into the parking lot extends for nearly a kilometer. Like Doors they have furniture, garden goods and household items. In addition, however, they have clothing, grocery items, and stationery. (Take the central exit at Omori station, turn left and walk down Ikegami Dori for over a kilometer. Daishin is on the left hand side.)
Olympic in Takadanobaba, has sportswear, sporting goods, appliances and electrical goods. (Take the Waseda exit of JR Takadanobaba station, walk up Waseda Dori to Meiji Dori. Turn left and follow Meiji Dori about 200 or 300 meters. Olympic is on the right hand side.)
Ameyokocho, which stretches between Okachimachi and Ueno stations, was been a marketplace for at least 3 centuries; legend is that it was one of the black markets during the postwar occupation. Cheap fresh produce and fish, cheap imported food, consumer goods (this is where we buy our Flex shampoo and Colgate toothpaste!) and clothing (Vicki did a lot of her shopping here when she was a student); we've heard that even fresh ingredients for southeast Asian cuisine can be found here.
DISCOUNT CARDS AND PLANE/TRAIN TICKETS
Magnetic cards for use in public telephones and for purchasing commuter train and subway tickets, are often sold at discount travel shops for 2 to 5% below their face value. Such discount travel shops also sell train (including shinkansen) and plane tickets, especially for domestic travel, at a substantial savings. Gift coupons are also discounted here, if you buy enough of them. These shops are usually located near large train stations.
LIQUOR
Tanaka-ya in Meguro has the widest selection of hard liquor we've seen and at the very best prices. They also have a wide selection of wines and lots of great delicatessen items (such as we haven't found anywhere else in Tokyo!). From Meguro Station turn left, it's about 50 meters down on the left-hand side. You can't miss it; there are large baskets full of bottles of wine out in front.
Hanamasa has two locations that we've found (we've also heard of others): Shimbashi and Omori. The one in Omori, in the basement of the Ra Ra Building at the north exit of the station, has an excellent selection of wines from around the world and at very good prices. Their selection of hard liquor is also quite good. Shimbashi's store, on the ground floor of the #3 Ginza Nine building, carries wines, but not as wide a selection. The Omori store is also a great place to shop when preparing for a party--they carry lots of items in restaurant size (eg, liter bottles of mayonnaise).
STATIONERY
Ito-ya on Chuo-dori in Ginza is THE place for all sorts of stationery and paper products. Their inventory is so large that it requires two multi-storied buildings to hold it all. The selection of colored and patterned paper covers an entire wall. Apparently they sell "post its" in all the colors of the rainbow, too.
Office Depot now has stores in Gotanda and Ginza. Stay tuned for details!
BOOKSTORES
BIBLOS, F.I. Bldg, 4F, 1-26-5 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku, (03) 3200-4531. Good range of English books and magazines. Friendly staff. 30 seconds to the station.
GOODDAY BOOKS, 1-11-23 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, (03) 5421-0957. English language books; new and used. Friendly staff, nice atmosphere, including a reading/play corner for kids.
| For an idea of what things cost here in Tokyo, check out "Price Check Tokyo!". |
We're not avid rock climbers, but here are a couple of places we've learned about.
Pump 2 (Nakanoshima station on the JR Nambu line). Take the Toyoko line to Musashi-kosugi, change to the Nambu line in the direction of Tachikawa and ride to Nakanoshima (the stop after Noborito). At Nakanoshima go left out of the ticket wicket (there is only one -- it is a very small station) and walk down the street 400 or 500 meters to a corner that has a sign for a hair salon. Turn left, go another 200 or 300 meters. There's a driving range on the left and a big purple building with funky red columns on the right. This is the building -- most of it is a health club called Espacio. Go around to the left side of the building and you will find Pump 2 -- the climbing gym. There is a one-time registration fee of Y2,000. It costs Y2,000 to climb all day.
For a more "natural" experience, many rock climbers like to
visit an old sandstone quarry on the Miura Peninsula at Oppama on the Keihin
Kyuko train line. Because of the way the stone was quarried there are several
sheer stone faces which are perfect for rock climbing. It's also just a
fun place to hang out; the shapes of the remnants of the quarry are eery--like
a lost world!
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