Address -Tokyo-to, Minato-ku, Nishi Azabu 1-5-16, AK Bldg 1F Opening hours - 12:00 to 2:00 and 6:00 to 12:00 Map Yes Telephone - 5474-0668 Menu - In English and Japanese CC - Yes Site -Yes


I was born near Venice, so when I read on the now defunct magazine Savour that there was a Venetian restaurant in town I was eager to go, even though our cuisine isn't particularly famous within Italy. I went and was rewarded with a memorable dinner. The only restaurant I can think of that equals Al Doge is La Cantinella.

By the way, before you arrive at Al Doge, which is right at the bottom of an alley in Nishi Azabu, you pass two intriguing Italian restaurants. One is called Antichi Sapori (5772-3591, closed on Sunday), which serves rigatoni alla norcina (a rare dish you probably don't know, but believe me, it's wonderful stuff) and the other Osteria Da Vinci (5411-8131, closed on Sunday). The presence of rigatoni alla norcina electrified me, and I mean to visit Antichi Sapori fairly soon, but I went ahead to Al Doge.

Due to the terrible weather (it was snowing like crazy, but it was Junko's birthday and I had promised her a sumptuous free dinner), that evening the place was deserted, but it was pleasant nonetheless, and we had the pleasure of chatting with the owner, Mr. Galardi. Having been born few miles one from the other but being both living since long in Japan, liking each other was perhaps inevitable, but the food surely helped.
The menu isn't particularly long, just six or seven pastas, and as many dishes each of fish and meat, but simply reading their description makes your mouth water. Venice being a marine city, fish is of course the basis of most of them and they are just a pleasure to look at.

After sharing a dish of Italian raw ham, I had creamed fish wrapped in a crepe, plus fegato alla veneziana with polenta, a traditional liver dish I hadn't eaten in years. My beloved one had pappardelle (a kind of pasta) with shellfish in a saffron and rosemary sauce, plus a curried stuffed squid that I envied her the moment it arrived at the table. Mr Galardi and his Japanese cook have been together for many years, and one can tell: this is true Italian food, without even a foreign accent, and everything from the home-made breadsticks to the desserts is lovely, grappa excellent, hospitality just right, kind but not intrusive. What more can I say? Go as soon as you have the money, for Al Doge isn't cheap (we spent about 7500 yen apiece with a coffee) but you will get your money's worth.
My only complaint is that it's difficult to get to. Getting there on foot takes probably ten minutes from Roppongi.