Cave Bar - French
Reviewed by Claus ReggeAddress - B1 Takadanobaba Nishi-Shotengai Bldg., 3-12-6 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku (about 4 minutes from Takadanobaba JR station) - Map - Yes Telephone - 3368-8075 - Menu - In Japanese - CC - No
The Takadanobaba area is blessed with a huge variety of eating and drinking establishments catering to practically every taste and budget. But what it lacked sorely in the past was a wine bar worth the name. (By that I don't mean another branch of that ubiquitous "Wine Bar" chain where very suspicious wine is served with mediocre food to an unsuspecting clientele of students and young office clerks.)
All the greater my surprise when I discovered a large wooden sign with "Cave Bar" and the subtitle "Wine & French" (sic!) inscribed on it. Reckless imbiber that I am, I absolutely had to go that very same evening.
In the basement of an inconspicuous building facing Waseda-dori, "Cave Bar" consists of two rooms with spacious wooden bar counters, refrigerated wine storage cabinets within visibility, and a pantry in the back. Mr. Morimoto, the owner/manager, although never having lived outside Japan, knows all the essentials about wine, can discuss the subject intelligently, and has put together a sizable list of 80 or so varieties spanning three continents but with an emphasis on old world (French, Spanish, Italian, etc.) bottles. Other drinks include cognac, a few cocktails, a Sandeman ruby port, and a calvados. There's also draft ber.
On a blackboard you will find about six "specials" of the day served by the glass -- a welcome departure from the usual red-or-white house wine routine.
But Mr. Morimoto deserves credit for trying something very unusual: keeping prices down to manageable levels. Bottles start at under Yen 2000 and even the most expensive "cru" on the list, the second label from the Rothschild family's Chateau Lafite in Paulliac, is only Yen 7500 for the '97 vintage. At any French restaurant in Roppongi you would expect to pay around Yen 13,000 or more for this bottle. However, you can order up something very decent and thoroughly drinkable in the 4000 Yen range. About 6000 Yen will buy you a bottle of '97 Chateau Montrose, the 2nd growth (in the 1855 classification) from St. Estephe, and that, by Tokyo standards, is a true bargain. Recent additions include "La Clementine de Pape Clement" (2nd wine of famous "Pape Clement" from Pessac-Leognan at Yen 5,600), and the (fabulous) "Chateau Haut Marbuzet" from St. Estephe (neighbor of "Clos Estournelle"), at Yen 6,800 for the '97 vintage. Both are very modestly priced by Tokyo standards.
When I first visited Cave Bar, there were two serious problems. The red wines were served much too cold, at around 12 degrees C. And the wine list was all in katakana.
Both problems have been solved. A few bottles of each of the reds are being kept out of refrigeration now. And, following my suggestion, Mr. Morimoto has created two albums containing the original wine labels, one for white, the other for red.
Food? "Cave Bar" does not offer full meals but a good selection of French-style hors d'oeuvres, some quite substantial and practically all under Yen 1000. These are freshly prepared and some change every day. On my first visit, the terrine a campagne and a mousse of red peppers were both excellent, and another evening my friends enjoyed scallops and even a risotto. On my last visit, the bisque d'hommard (lobster soup) and a breaded, deep-fried veal-and cheese dish were both tasty and true to the French originals. Mr. Igarashi, the chef, has apparently worked at some major French restaurants before.
Summing up:
Good international selection of reasonably priced wines; well-prepared, inexpensive hors d'oeuvres and some more substantial dishes; friendly, knowledgeable service; open till the wee hours; comfortable bar counter seating. I have introduced several friends of various nationalities to Cave Bar, and every single one of them liked it a great deal. Some have become regulars. Give it a try.
Last visited: February 7, 2004
