Address - 3-4-19 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Opening hours - Every day open from 11 to 15 and 17 to 23:30. Map - On Sakae Dori, see directions further down Telephone - 03-5386-6030 Menu - In English and Japanese Credit Cards - No

Since a year there’s a new Turkish restaurant on Sakae Dori called Deniz. One would assume that on Sakae Dori, with all its Japanese and Chinese restaurants, life wouldn't be easy for gaijin restaurants, yet Great India and Deniz ("The Sea" in Turkish) seem to survive.

There already was a Turkish restaurant in 'Baba called Marmara, and I have known about it for years, since the good old days of the World Cup when it appeared on TV. In my opinion it's OK, but it sure doesn't shine, and that's why I almost never go there.

Deniz was opened a while back by staff formerly at Marmara, who say it's not very authentic. Maybe. Anyway, a friend whose tastes I trust ate there and liked it, so we both went. It's a tiny place on two floors and either I am not lucky or it's always mobbed, so it's better to book a table.

In any case, the menu consists exclusively of classics, which wasn't a surprise: that's the way it is here in Tokyo. So we always have classics, from mezze (assorted vegetable appetizers) to kebabs, Turkish salads with feta and the so-called Turkish pizza. Everything is excellent. All in all, considering that they have good beer and prices are reasonable, a very good place.

April 3, 2006