Address - Kagurazaka Tokyo-to, Shinjuku-ku, Nakamachi 21 Mejiro Yutaka Bdg. 1Fl, Shimo Ochiai 3-12-23, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Opening hours - From 11:00am to 11:00 pm Map - Kagurazaka Mejiro: see directions Telephone - Kagurazaka 3260-8767 Mejiro 5982-2258 Menu - In Japanese and Italian CC - OK

As I mentioned elsewhere, old Carmine has become an Italian style pizzeria called La Volpaia. Curious to see how good it was, I went to eat there and here is my report.

La Volpaia is not just a pizzeria: it also serves some appetizers and pasta, which I have not tried as yet. The menu includes 10 different types of pizza, among which I tasted two. My opinion: OK, but no more than that. They are real Italian pizzas, but there is something missing in the flavor, perhaps watered down for Japanese palates. For example, you could barely taste the anchovies in the Napoletana. Anchovies are the heart of a Napoli! The pizza with rucola and raw ham was also good without being brilliant. For real Italian pizza, go to "La Befana" or give it up and eat at Carmine's, just across the street.

Note: recently (March 1999) Carmine opened opened a new branch of La Volpaia in Mejiro. I have no reason to believe it is better than the Kagurazaka branch. To find it, turn left at the station and walk for some hundred meters. It's on the left side of the street.