Address - Tokyo-to, Minato-ku, Roppongi 4-4-6, Chowa Bldg. Higashi-kan 1F Opening hours Open 17:30 to 23:00, Closed Sundays and National Holidays Map - See directions Telephone - 3479-1390 Menu - In Japanese and English CC - Yes
Hidden away in a back alley of Roppongi near the ex-Defense Agency is one of my long-time favorites, Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden. Founded over 20 years ago by Albert Stamp, an American restaurateur and wine expert, with some financial help from the wine department of Kikkoman, Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden must not be confused with the similarly named chain of cheap wine bars found all over Tokyo.
Many years before Japan's recent wine boom, Al Stamp set out to make this place a cozy gathering spot for wine lovers with mainly French-inspired food and some steaks offered more as an afterthought. After running it himself for over a decade, Al then returned management rights to his financial backers. They appointed Mr. Sekimoto as manager and maitre d' which position he fills to this day.
I gladly admit that I owe Al Stamp and his restaurant a good deal of my wine education. It was quite unusual in those days to find a truly comprehensive selection of wines from all major producing countries gathered in one smallish spot, at decent prices and supported by Al's freely dispensed expertise and advice. The wine list was quite a tome, organized by country and region of origin and, for the most important regions like Bordeaux, by appellation and rank. While one could choose a modest but well selected bottle for around Yen 3000, there was also a great selection of all the premiere grand crus, of good vintages and with enough bottle age, at Yen 30,000 and up. And up. And up...
But please note the past tense in the preceding paragraphs. The decor with its warm wood colors and filament bulb lighting hasn't changed, classical music is still streaming from the speakers at restrained volume levels, and the food has become, if anything, better and more varied over the years. But the wine list, while still well planned, is only a pale shadow of its former self, down to a tenth or less. Champagnes and sparkling wines, although still in stock, are not even listed any longer. Bordeaux has been reduced to a page or so -- there used to be dozens. Other areas such as Alsace or Austria have been given short shrift.
That said, I still like to go to Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden from time to time and I recommend it to any wine drinker looking for a decent bottle or two to wash down some more than just decent French-style food or, at later hours, just a plate of cheeses. For a very satisfyling three-course meal, the tab will be around Yen 4000. I don't bother with the wine list any longer, instead consulting with Sekimoto-san about what else he has to offer. He invariably pulls a few bottles out of his sleeve that are not on the list, perhaps because of limited supply, or maybe because he was just too lazy to list them. (Note: there is no beer but a wide selection of after-dinner digestifs.)
Service always has been relaxed, unassuming but courteous. You'll be made to feel welcome even if you're alone, although I consider Mr. Stamp's a perfect choice for a date. Assuming, of course, that the lady knows how to drink and be happy...
Reservations recommended, especially on Fri and Sat
How to get there
From Roppongi crossing, walk toward Aoyama 1-chome and the ex-Defense Agency headquarters on the right side of Gaien-Higashi-dori. Turn right into the third alley. At its end, turn left and immediately right again. Mr. Stamp's Wine Garden is on the left-hand side at the end of that alley. You'll see some wine crates stacked outside and Mr. Stamp's bearded face adorning a yellow sign.
Benjamin Chee Chee - Sun Bird
Benjamin Chee Chee is an Ojibway artist from Canada I almost worship. Have you ever seen anything like "Sun Bird"? I sure haven't. There isn't much on the Net about him, but you can see some of his works and, if you like them, buy the prints. I own several. I also found a short biography of the man, but it's definitely not enough.
