Address • In Ogikubo: Suginami-ku, Ogikubo 5-29-7 Ichibankan 2. Fl. • In Chitose Karasuyama: Setagaya-ku, Minami Karasuyama 6-7-19 Opening hours 6:00 PM to 12:00 PM Map - Yes Telephone • In Ogikubo: 3220-3306 • In Chitose Karasuyama : 3305-0888 Menu - In Japanese Credit Cards - OK

As a rule, I don't eat much Japanese food because honestly I am not very fond of sushi, sashimi, nori and sunomono; even after many years in Japan, they are still much too exotic for my tastes. Once in a while, though, I really enjoy a meal based on Kushiyaki (meat and other delicacies grilled on a stick, like for example, but not only limited to, yakitori).

The reason Kushiyaki is an exception to the rule is the fact that it has all the elegance and simplicity of other Japanese styles of cooking, but it's closer to my tastes: the fact it's warm and not stone cold doesn't hurt. I also enjoy immensely seeing my food being prepared with so much skill right in front of my eyes. Well, I have an excellent Kushiyaki restaurant called Torinosuke just five minutes from home and I go there once in a while when I don't feel like cooking. There used to be another even closer that I preferred because of its nicer interior, but this one is almost as good.

Tori no Suke's interior is simple and moderately elegant, although a little small, as there are no more than twenty seats in all. Quite comfy, in any case, and relaxing even when full. As soon as you sit down, you get the first reward: a beautiful complimentary dish of colorful raw vegetables accompanied by some flavored miso dip. A strip of red bell pepper, one of white daikon, a third of green cucumber, an orange carrot and so forth: they are a pleasure to the eye and to the stomach, because the stuff and the miso really go very well together. The menu is unfortunately only in Japanese without pictures, but do not let this deter you if you are shy and don't speak Japanese: the adventure is well worth the effort. Its entries are numerous and well chosen, mostly classics like Tsukune, Tebasaki, Asuparamaki and the like, but there are also some small surprises (I won't tell you what they are, or they wouldn't be surprises any more) and non Kushiyaki items like onigiri, chazuke, salads, etc.

I always order a-la-carte and, to fill my stomach, besides the Kushiyaki stuff I also get a small Soboro, that is rice covered with minced meat, a raw quail egg and some boiled vegetables (far nicer to see and eat than it sounds), all washed down with a beer or a Moscow Mule, which seems to me a good choice if you don't feel like having simple water, but want something close to it.

Drinks, besides some cocktails, include beer, whisky, wine (probably not too good), and assorted soft drinks.

Damages: about 2500 yen per person for a good, solid meal without drinks.

If you don't live near Ogikubo and don't know Kushiyaki, give it a try at the closest Kushiyaki restaurant you find: I would be surprised if you didn't like it.

Tori no Suke has a branch in Chitose Karasuyama on the Keio Line at the above address.