Address - Kanagawa-ken, Kotsubo-shi Opening hours - Every day 11:30 to 20:00 or until they run out of fish Map - See directions Telephone - 0467-241682 Menu - Japanese only CC - Of course not

Kotsubo is a very small comunity next to Zushi Marina, half way between Kamakura and Zushi proper. Besides a famous gay beach I haven't been yet able to spot and have been far too embarrassed to ask about, there isn't much to look at. Next to the sea there's an Italian restaurant called Piccolo Vaso that I might visit one of these days (but I am pessimistic about it. What on earth would a good Italian restaurant doing here?).

One possible reason to take the bus from Kamakura or simply walk to Kotsubo from the beach at around 12 AM is a picturesque restaurant called Yuuki situated right next to Kotsubo's small harbor and its fish market. Its most interesting and prominent feature are the tables, all in the open and covered with parasols. During the summer, the idea of eating there is for me hard to resist. Having lunch in the open when possible is normal in Europe and the US, but almost unheard of in Japan, and great fun.

And during the winter? If you don't mind the cold, and it appears there are folks who don't, Yuuki is open as usual.

The food is simple, but excellent and cheap, and since fish is captured locally, it's an obvious, but by no means mandatory, choice. You can have sashimi, grilled or stewed fish. My favorite is the Kinme no Nikomi, but it's often finished by the time I arrive.
Sets are attractive, and with a beer are a very complete and very traditional meal the like of which you can't get in Tokyo. Part of it are the usual miso-shiru, rice and pickles, of course, but there's also a raw egg and some fish based goo about whose nature I have decided not to inquire. If you decide to dine there, remember to go before 6:30, otherwise all the good stuff will be gone.

Getting there:

From Kamakura:
Take bus No. 40 in front of the station and get off as soon as you pass the Zushi Marina tunnel. You will see Yuuki right next to Zushi Harbor. Take a chair and enjoy.