MATERlALS
The only equipment you need to make this model is a large cereal packet, a pair of scissors and some glue - Citadel PVA, UHU, Evostick, Bostik, or any similar adhesive is perfect. You might find that some sellotape, and a modelling knife come in handy, but they are not essential. We also used a few ordinary drinking straws to add extra detail to one of our Strongpoints.
THE TEMPLATES
The templates with this article provide you with the exact shapes for all the pieces you need to make your model. You'll need to either remove the pages from your magazine or photocopy them before you start. You don't need to cut out the individual pieces as you are simply going to transfer the shapes onto your card. The best way to do this is to put the page over your card and then use a compass, or a similar sharp pointy thing, to prick a hole through at each comer. The red circles on the templates show all the positions at which you'll need to do this. Once you have marked all the corners in this way, just join up all the pin holes with a pen or pencil like a dot-to-dot puzzle and you'll have a perfect copy. You can then cut out this card copy with your scissors. You'll find that you need to make two or more copies of some of the pieces but this information is marked on the templates.
The Strongpoint consists of three parts: two towers and a bridging section between. The towers both look the same but one is in fact a mirror image of the other. Don't worry about this. All you have to do is fold the two sections of one tower rnside out' and you'll find you have just the shapes you need.
ASSEMBLlNG THE TOWERS
Take all the bits for one tower and score and fold along the dotted lines. Use a knife or the blade of your scissors to do this, but be careful not to cut right through your card. Cut out and remove the grey areas completely but place them on one side. The section with the black bars on it can be turned upside down and glued onto the outside of your model to make 'steps' to the entrance. The other section can also be used to create additional surface detail.
The two halves of the tower are glued together along the side flaps. You'li find it helps if you glue one flap in place and use sellotape to hold the other side firm, then, when the first bit is dry, undo the sellotape and glue the second side.
Once the basic tower structure is sound you can insert the floors. The floors fit in underneath and are secured by four separate flaps of card. You'll find it easiest to hold these in with sellotape while you glue a couple of flaps at a time. Don't worry about splashing glue about or leaving gaps or rough edges - you'll cover all that up with paint afterwards.
While all this is drying you can go off and have a cup of tea or eat a few more bowls of cornflakes to make sure you've got enough card for the next bit.
THE BRlDGlNG SECTlON
once both towers are complete you can add the bridging section. This consists of two pieces, the walls and a walkway. Start off by marking out the templates, cutting them out and scoring all the dotted lines to make folds and flaps as you did with the towers.
Assembly is very straightforward and you should be able to work it out by fiddling with the bits of card and looking at the diagrams on the opposite page. Fold the two sides of the bridging section walls upwards and bend the flaps outward as you can see in Diagram B. Glue the flaps on the bridging section just inside the rectangular hole you cut out of one of the towers. Once this is dry, glue the other end of the bridging section to the other tower in the same way. It should now become clear why you needed to make a mirror image of the second tower, but don't worry if you forgot. Your first building willjust have to have an entrance that happens to face the enemy assault! When both ends are dry, glue the walkway down into the bridging section so that it lies flush with the floor of the two towers. The flaps on either side of the walkway should tuck downwards so that they cannot be seen on the finished model.
THE JOB'S A GOOD 'UN!
And that's it! Welljust about anyway. I always like to put my own buildings onto a separate card base as this makes them a bit more stable, but you don't have to. The end result is a quick, easy and practical Warhammer 40,000 building that will serve you well for a good few battles. I once spent an afternoon chuming out buildings just like this for a game, and must have made at least a dozen of assorted shapes and sizes. I don't remember painting them either, we just played over this massive cityscape game the very next day.
