Nagano - Shirakawago

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Riding Tours > Nagano Ride Notes

Early Summer Touring in the Japan Alps


The tour outline— As we were leaving from Izu, depart from Shimoda and travel through central Izu. From the top of the peninsula, skirt Mt. Fuji, and take the Chuuo expressway to Matsumoto IC, and overnight at Kaiserberg. With 2 nights reserved in Matsumoto, the second day was for the surrounding mountain routes. From Matsumoto, leave for the Arimine Dam area, with overnight plans in Tonami, near Toyama-shi. ((Due to last minute route changes (some roads were still impassable), we ended up with a slightly modified route to our overnight.)) The final day, leave Tonami, visit Shirakawago village in the morning, and return on the expressway back to Tokyo. Total time: 4 days. Total distance: 1800 km.

Click here for Nagano Day 1 ride notes The first day — The weather was relatively warm, but had been drizzling all night long. The roads were a little damp, so it was rain-suit weather. From our stay in Izu, we rode up route 135 to Rte. 414 via Rt. 14. This took us up to the Numazu area within 2 hours or so. After a brief rest stop at Numazu to fill up on some coffee, we took the Tomei expressway 1 stop to Rte. 138, which lead us along the back-side of Mt. Fuji. A very nice moving road, with great views of Fuji along the way. We ended up taking a small road (rte. 358) around Lake Motosu that curved for about 10 kilometers with no traffic lights. Ending up around the Koufu Minami IC on the Chuuo, it was a short jump up to Matsumoto IC where we had plans to overnight. After a short ride, we made our way to Kaiserberg, a Red Baron Group operated motorcyclist's inn. I think we were the only guests that night, so we took ownership privileges with the hot baths and ignored the signs about Men/Ladies.

<< For more photos from this day, the image above, or here. >>

Click here for Nagano Day 2 ride notes. The second day — Weather was absolutely beautiful for us on the second day, as confirmed by another visit to the baths (this time we enjoyed the ladies' side, which was cooler in temperature. The sun was shining, and we started out nice and early from Kaiserberg and rode through the Ariake and Toyoshina area to visit Matsumoto castle. The castle is also called the Karasu castle, or Crow's castle, as it is black in color. Historically, it was an important castle in the development of the feudal governments.

From downtown Matsumoto, we headed for the Venus line, a long and winding skyline drive in the nearby mountains that is now free to ride. The ups and downs were very enjoyable, and I found a new appreciation for fat and sticky tires on a 250 kg beast of a bike. While I can't say that I scrape my foot pegs or the cans in turns, I was having a fun time leaning the bike and powering through the turns.

At one side of the Venus line is a Picasso-esque outdoor museum situated at 2000 meters, which was a good place for a break. From there, we started heading back towards the other end of the Venus line, and ended up on a small little road off the line that took us into the Lake Suwa area. We decided it was time for a lunch break, and found a Gusto, home of the free refills on all drinks. Ed called us then, and we set up a meeting spot near the Suwa IC. It was a nice break for us to visit the 7-11's bathroom, as well as pick up some snacks and wait for Ed, who arrived shortly after. After a brief rest, we set out for a back route that would take us back to the Venus line, via Lake Shirakaba, and some nice mountain roads. We intended to be back in Matsumoto by nightfall, but the routes were not as cooperative. With a couple of small roads that were closed, and a couple of detours, we found ourselves on small unmarked roads with only signs saying "Matsumoto - 20 km". Weaving through the small twisties on roads that were under construction, and narrowly avoiding setting the bike down in several gravel patches, we finally found ourselves rejoining civilization, as measured by cellphone signals and gas stations. Ahh, after that, a steak dinner and beer, followed by a hot bath and sleep was really on the forefront of our minds.

<< For more photos from this day, the image above, or here. >>

Click here for Nagano Day 3 ride notes. The third day — From Matsumoto, with the sun shining bright, our plans had us riding towards the Kamikochi area, where we planned to go through the Norikura pass, and then up to Arimine Dam. As it turns out, some of the roads we had intended to take weren't passable yet, so last minute changes kept us on our toes. We did enjoy a number of local roads that, although they didn't take us where we wanted to go, were a lot of fun to ride anyway. Golden Week traffic caught up with us on the road to Kamikochi, and made for slow travelling. Having my Givi side cases on with the 50 liter top case meant not being able to easily maneouver in limited traffic lanes, so it was a slow day, at least for half of it. Cancelling the Norikura side trip (which would have taken us to Japan's highest pass accessible by vehicle), we focused on the Arimine trip. From Rte. 471 just beyond Kamikochi, there is a small logging road that is 48 kilometers long, with no traffic lights. I think we ended up enjoying it about 20 kilometers before we found our way blocked by a Road Closed sign. <Sigh>. Taking a brief rest to let our arses return to non-seat shapes, we checked the map, and found that we could alter our trip plans by taking in a Day 4 site slightly ahead of schedule.

Our minor detour towards Shirakawago ended abruptly when we learned that the roads we would need to get there were still closed, which meant another rest stop and look at the map. Finding an open route, we finally made our way up to Tonami, where we stayed at an Apa Hotel. Pretty nice and convenient. and a great set up for our next day's ride to Shirakawago on open roads.

<< For more photos from this day, the image above, or here. >>

Click here for Nagano Day 4 ride notes. The fourth day — Weather was rainy and overcast as we started out nice and early from Tonami, and made our way to the expressway for a jump to the local road that would take us to Shirakawago. Shirakawago is a small village that has UNESCO World Heritage status, due to its' style of house construction called Gassho-zukuri. We got there fairly early (before 9:30 am), and enjoyed walking around, checking out the old sights, and just being tourists in a light drizzle.

After about an hour of poking around in the "folk museum" where the buildings had been restored, we wandered through town in a search for a post office to send some of the traditional "wish you were here postcards." If you want to be on the recipient list, let me know.

From Shirakawago, we hopped down to the Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway, and returned to Tokyo via Nagoya.

<< For more photos from this day, the image above, or here. >>

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Overall Impression:

A very enjoyable ride. We originally planned for 3 days, and extended to 4 to enjoy the Alpine roads and the Venus Line, which made it the fun ride that it was, as opposed to a strictly scheduled tour. Having the 2nd day to just play on the Venus line, and all the other roads we took, was a good break, and loads of fun. Highly recommended, although the schedule (early May) was too early to fully enjoy the roads. June, July, and August are more recommended, as the routes are open then.

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