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 Bonne Chez Taka
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Most small Japanese towns are not noted for their foreign cuisine, and Fujino is no exception. —However, one of our more pleasant discoveries after moving to Fujino was the presence of a disconcertingly good French and Italian restaurant in the next-door town of Uenohara. How Chef Tomita Takaaki ("Taka") can continue to maintain his high standards of French cuisine in a small town like Uenohara is a constant mystery. Bonne Chez Taka is simply one of those small serendipities that sometimes comes your way. Chef Taka earned his cook's credentials through six years' apprenticeship at one of the Prince Hotels in Tokyo, and two more at Lake Yamanaka. He has won prizes for excellence in Kôfu and all-Yamanashi competitions, one for a wine sherbet, and the other for a char poire. Starting his own restaurant six years ago, he has been working in the new structure shown here since 1996. The building and interior are a rather eclectic mix of styles, and everyone I've talked to wishes they'd dim the lights and change the music, but let's talk about the food here. Taka prepares his full-course menus with the greatest attention to detail, of course making all ingredients himself. I don't know whether Taka makes compromises with his à la carte dishes to survive in the locality, but he is certainly uncompromising on his full-course menus. Not to say that his regular menu is inferior. It is quite good, featuring a variety of pastas as well as meat and fish dishes, but it is the full-blown courses where he really shines. Chef Taka varies his full-course menus seasonally, alternating between Italian and French, although he states he personally prefers the latter (I concur). Most of the full menus start out with a combination hors d'oeuvre plate, go on to a soup or pasta and hot fresh-baked bread, two main entrees (fish and meat, with exquisite sauces), and finish with a combination desert plate, featuring treats like cocoa-dusted tiramisu, lucious panacotta, and Taka's own hand-made sherbets and ice creams. In fact, everything on this menu is personally hand made by Taka himself, an amazing feat, when you consider the locale. The full-course meal runs ¥4,700 (or ¥3,500 with one main entree), and is well worth it. One might wish for a bit broader wine menu, but considering the locale, it is adequate. Unfortunately, Taka doesn't have a genuine wine cellar, and the red wines may be too chilled if you don't call in advance and ask him to take a bottle out of the cooler. If you're planning to be in the Fujino-Uenohara area, I strongly recommend you telephone ahead and make reservations for the full-course meal. I don't think you'll be disappointed. —and tell him I sent you. If you have the opportunity to dine there, I'll be happy to pass any reflections or comments on to Taka if you e-mail me here.
Access: after leaving the Uenohara exit (No. 9) on the Chûô Expressway, turn left and take the snaking road down the hill, then turn right at the second light, and follow the road about 500 m; the road will then curve away from the river; after about 200 meters more, BCT is the solitary Western-styled house on the right. Alternately, from Uenohara town center, take Highway 20 west; after passing the Uenohara police station, continue descending the hill, then turn left at the Uenohara High School intersection, and drive about 200 meters; BCT will be on the left.
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Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Townshipby Norman Havens nhavens@gol.com
URL: http://www2.gol.com/users/nhavens/htmlfile/bon-e.html
