Tashkent/タシケント (2003.07.23-2003.07.25) Our road to our next destination--Tashkent--started out on the highway connecting Almaty with Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgistan. We bypassed Kyrgyz territory just before the border and switched to the route that goes trough the city of Taraz. The original plan was to go through Kyrgyzstan, but we didnユt have much time left on our Kazakh visas, so it was either or Kyrgyzstan or Uzbekistan. Visiting both was out of the question, as we still had to go through Kyrgyzstan to get back to Russia. We ruled out Turkmenistan at that point, too. We did have a couple of little incidents on our way to Uzbekistan. An officer at a police checkpoint wanted to "fine" us for improper papers, but Chris was adamant about not paying up. Also, a car full of young people wanted us to stop and party with them. We didnユt have the time or will to indulge them, though. By this point, we had had enough of the public drunkenness that permeates the former Soviet Union all summer. Getting to the Uzbekistan border was a bit more confusing than we expected. The road signs directing us to Tashkent disappeared a few turns before the actual border. We donユt think we missed one, but eventually we had to stop and ask a police officer for directions. We were directed to what seems to be a minor border crossing. Kazak customs collected our papers and stamped us out of the country with no problems. The Uzbek side was not much of a hassle, just a bit of waiting and a big crowd. One problem was that the officers at the next gate less than a hundred meters away said we needed different forms so we ended up going back and forth. For instance, the guard at the customs exit wanted to see our declarations (but was willing to let us go without them). The city of Tashkent was right on the border. We checked ourselves into a dingy Hadra Hotel near the Chorsu central bazaar in Tashkent. It was only about $10 a night and we could park our bikes in the lobby. But that involved riding up a staircase and trough a narrow doorway. The only good thing about our hotel was that it was close to the Chorsu Bazaar. All sorts of foods, spices, and clothing are available there. You are reminded that this is a real silk road bazaar. And that meant the food venders there were able to provide us with all sorts of delicious Central Asian dishes. Tasty and cheap, 'shashlik' kebabs were the main staple of our diet. 'Nan' bread and 'chai' tea were always included with the meal. The area around the market had a real Islamic feel to it with its mosques and madrassahs. We had at last shed most of the communist soviet feel that permeates the region. A ride on the only subway in Central Asia took us to the new city center, but there was not much to see. Tashkent is the largest city in Central Asia. It is also pretty unevevntful. At least we could find a decent Russian beer in the city center. Uzbek food is pretty good, but the beer left a lot to be desired. アルマティからキルギスの首都ビシュケクへ向かう道を進み、国境手前でキルギス領を迂回するようにタラズを経てタシケントへ進む。シルクロードのうち天山北路と呼ばれるルートだ。キルギス領内の天山山脈を左手に炎天下の中を走った。当初はキルギスも予定に入っていたが、カザフスタンの査証の期限を考えると時間的にキルギス、ウズベキスタン双方をまわることは不可能だったためだ。トルクメニスタン通過もこの時点で切り捨てた。道中、書類の不備をでっちあげ 「罰金」を請求する検問の警官がいたが、クリスの激しい抵抗で退けた。また酔っ払って盛り上がっている若者の車が、一緒に飲もうと絡んできて実にうざい。夏の旧ソ領内はみんな酔っ払いだ。
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